Thursday 23 September 2010

A tall americano? No grazie.


There are 11,575 Starbucks in USA, 727 in the UK, 79 in Spain, 48 in France, but not a single one in Italy [source]. This final figure might be surprising seeing that Starbucks chairman, Howard Schultz, created his coffee shops inspired by Italy's unique espresso bars. And unique they are as Starbucks has warped its inspiration into an almost universally successful bastardisation of the espresso. The 97th best global brand, however, is wholly unwelcome in Italy where the power of culture and tradition wins over the power of the brand.

The Italian company, Caffè Kimbo, embodies this ideal of tradition. Looking at its advertising over the years and comparing it with its modern day adverts, there is apparently very little change in the brand's verbal or visual identity. The Kimbo logo differs very slightly and each 30-second spot focuses on the Italian tradition of sharing coffee and chewing the fat (figuratively, of course. Prosciutto crudo isn't normally eaten outside meal hours). Thus, its image has remained consistent through the years, as has its excellent taste. Having just returned from the lower shin of Italy, Naples, I noticed that Kimbo sees little need to advertise extensively as its consumers know it's the best. So, while its competitors, such as Lavazza, believe they must adorn their image all over the exteriors of espresso bars, Kimbo rests easy in the knowledge that coffee drinkers will request the brand. For, since in Italy the coffee culture is so social, Kimbo sits in the middle of a virtuous circle - while people enjoy their coffee, they talk about it with others who will then enjoy the coffee (with others) etc. etc.




The message behind this is that however powerful a brand may be, sometimes it will never break the power of tradition and society - 0% beer will never be on the pumps of English Pubs, people worldwide will never stop going to live music even if they can download it five minutes after it's played and Spaniards will never replace tapas for a Big Mac.

The tradition of the espresso is not the only thing to be transformed on its international expansion. The preferred beverage of Scottish vagrants, Tennent's Super, is considered by some Italians as a more quality lager than other premium European lagers, as these two tourist snaps show: